Izmir is Turkey's third largest city, a busy port, commercial centre and gateway to the Aegean Coast, but despite its size (population around three million) and importance it still retains enough holiday ambience to draw visitors to linger. Izmir is lively and cosmopolitan, and it is also scenic with palm-lined promenades lining the bay, backed by graceful avenues and attractive horizontal terraces rising up the slopes of the surrounding mountains. Visitors come to see the sights, haggle in the colourful bazaar, and dine on delicious meals at the many waterfront restaurants. A must-see is the city's landmark public elevator, linking Mithatpasa Street with the summit of the hill at Halil Rifat Pasa, from where there is a stunning view across the city and the bay. The best way to enjoy Izmir is to join the promenaders in the balmy evening air strolling on the esplanade, or jogging along in a horse-drawn carriage, between Konak Meydan and Alsancak.